Travelogue: Home via Northern Ontario (Days 48-52)

The eastbound Ontario stretch of our trip was very different from our earlier westbound Ontario stretch.

Whereas we hugged Lake Superior on our way west, this time we cut straight across northern Ontario: through isolated mining and logging towns like Beardmore, Greenstone, Hearst, and Kapuskasing, before making a hard right at Cochrane, down through Temiskaming, North Bay, Bracebridge, and Barrie, before collapsing in a heap back in Toronto.

That's a good 1500km to cover, so let's keep it brief-ish and cut it into sections.

Section 1: Thunder Bay (again).

The stretch between Thunder Bay and Winnipeg was basically the only part of this trip that we had to duplicate, as there really aren't many driving options between those two points.

Having seen Sleeping Giant from afar on our way west, we really wanted to get a close-up view this time. So we stopped for a picnic at a delightful little playground in Thunder Bay before setting out.

We couldn't do the hike up to the giant's head, with its spectacular 300-metre cliffs, because that hike is rated "hard" and takes 8 hours, while I am rated "soft" and didn't have 8 hours to spare.

But we did have the time and the toughness for the "Sea Lion" trail. With a beautiful fall day to work with, we enjoyed a lovely hike to a rock formation which, 100 years ago, looked like a lion staring majestically out to sea. These days it's just a regular old rock arch, but still definitely cool. Despite the calm weather, the waves off Lake Superior were absolutely hammering the rock below us, so it's no wonder that the sea lion isn't what it used to be.

From there we drove to Nipigon, where our path diverged from our westward route at a spectacular and somehow Scandinavian-looking bridge, sending us up into just about the most northerly part of Ontario accessible by minivan.

Part 2: Mining Country

There were several things that surprised me about the drive from Nipigon across to Cochrane.

First was how isolated it felt. Not since central New Brunswick had we gone so long without seeing another vehicle or having any connectivity. And there were sections of road that were straight enough to compete with some of Saskatchewan's mind-numbing highways.

Second was how French it was. I figured we'd get into Franco-Ontario as we approached the Québec border at Temiskaming, but pretty much the whole way we were seeing the Franco-Ontarian flag and small towns that seemed plucked straight from La Belle Province, with their church steeples and French-only road signs.

Cochrane was the highlight here because of its Polar Bear Habitat. This is a 24-acre facility that takes care of polar bears who, for one reason or another, need human care. It's also a great place to learn about polar bears, the impact human activity has had on their habitat, and what we can do about it.

The habitat is currently home to two polar bears, Ganuk and Henry. The latter, Henry, was the first polar bear born in Australia (at Sea World) and is now living what I imagine is a much better life than the one he would have led down under.

The other is Ganuk, whose mother was also a Cochrane bear, and he was very active on our visit; coming up to the glass to say hello, lounging in the sun, and munching on a giant pumpkin.

Part 3: Heading South

After Cochrane, we spent the night at Temiskaming Shores, which is a town I'd never heard of...or at least, I thought I hadn't. It was previously known as New Liskeard, but amalgamation teamed it up with several other surrounding communities and gave it a new name. Apart from a quick visit to a skate park and seeing the best small-business name and logo I may have ever seen in my life, there isn't much to say about the town.

Being a snobby Torontonian, it was strange and novel to drive south towards North Bay. I giggled inwardly about this several times on the drive.

North Bay was looking lovely on a 17-degree October day, and we very much enjoyed its lakeside park, Rotary Park, which was the last "triple threat" spot of the trip: a skate park, playground, and pump track all in one.

We spent the night in Bracebridge, at a hotel that felt - like so much else on this trip, especially as we got closer to the end of October - virtually empty except for us. We were the only ones in the restaurant, the only ones playing a hilariously inept game of billiards, the only ones swimming at the hotel pool, and for all we knew, the only ones staying up late watching an episode of "Animal Babies" on Netflix and wishing that we weren't going home the next day.

Part 4: Home

We had just one stop to make between Bracebridge and Toronto, but a symbolically significant one: the last Jumpstart Playground of the journey, built in Barrie to celebrate Canadian Tire's 100th anniversary in 2022. In a nice stroke of base-10 serendipity, it was also the 50th playground we visited on our cross-Canada tour.

It was a good one to end our trip with; because it was made to celebrate Canadian Tire's 100th, it had a lot of equipment that other Jumpstarts don't, including a climable "100" and a triple zip line that gave a really smooth ride. Plus it was dotted with golden accents here and there to make it extra special.

From there it was a quick and bittersweet drive down into Toronto and back to the Danforth.

It's always strange coming home after a long time away, especially when you live in a big city. You're reminded that everything has carried on while you've been away, indifferent to the adventure you've just had. Even our house felt exactly the same, as if it hadn't changed at all.

Which, of course, it hadn't. We were the ones who changed.

More wrap-up and trip thoughts to come. But for now...donations are still open until November 9th! If you believe in the power of play (and if you're here you probably do) please consider donating to our cross-Canada road trip by clicking here. It would mean a lot!